Imagine transforming old and worn-out clothing into stunning works of art. Kantha embroidery, an ancient textile tradition from Bengal, does exactly that!
Sometime around the 16th century, womenfolk in rural Bengal started using simple stitches to layer and patch weathered sarees and dhotis, creating warm and beautiful quilts or ‘‘Kantha’’ (in Bengali). In doing so, unknowingly, they started off a tradition of sustainable fashion that endures to this day.
The Kantha कथा/katha
Born from resourcefulness, the humble kantha embroidery, with its simple running stitch and everyday motifs of nature and common life, largely fell out of favour in the 19th and 20th centuries. Industrialization ushered in mass-produced and cheaper textile alternatives which dealt a decisive blow to the production and sale of handcrafted goods.
But like the proverbial phoenix, Kantha rose again in the mid-20th century. As global trends changed again, and the outlook towards handmade sustainable fashion underwent a transformation – the world was witness to a Kantha revival.
Today, Kantha embroidery is not only limited to stitching cosy patchwork quilts. The vibrant handicraft adorns a range of contemporary fits. From kantha stoles to block-print kantha sarees, champions of sustainable fashion and ethical Kantha clothing brands have made it their mission to keep the spirit of Kantha alive.
How did the humble embroidery craft journey out of the villages of Bengal to India’s leading fashion runways? Find out as we explore below the fascinating story of Kantha – its birth, decline, and revival.
The Enchanting Legacy of Kantha
Kantha embroidery boasts a legacy as rich and colourful as its threads. Its origins weave back centuries, likely connected to the Sanskrit word “Kontha” meaning rags, which hints at its ties to ancient stitching techniques.
Imagine rural women, skilled in the art of storytelling, transforming abandoned sarees and dhotis into beautiful narratives. The Kantha stitch may have been born out of utility, but it was so much more! The stitch whispered tales of daily life, nature’s bounty, and even depicted mythological scenes, delicately rendered onto fabric.
Traditionally, Kantha meant simple stitchwork on everyday garments, which added a bit of warmth and personalization. However, the namesake quilts were nothing short of layered masterpieces of recycled fabric. These flaunted elaborate running stitches and intricate designs, which transformed them into treasured heirlooms, passed down through generations. Kantha quilts didn’t just carry the warmth of being hand-made, they also often contained entire family narratives.
The legacy of Kantha is a testimony to the artistry and resourcefulness of Bengali women, past and present.
The Fading Threads of Kantha
While Kantha embroidery tells a tale of vibrant life, the 20th century brought a period of decline for the heritage craft. The shift to fast fashion and machine-made textiles offered quicker, cheaper alternatives to the handcrafted warmth of Kantha quilts. Appreciation for the skill and time poured into each stitch waned.
This decline significantly impacted the artisans who kept the tradition alive. Low wages made it difficult to sustain their livelihood, and limited access to markets restricted their reach.The very essence of Kantha – its connection to community and heritage – was threatened
The Kantha Revival Movement: Stitching a Brighter Future
The Kantha revival movement transcends mere aesthetic appreciation. It represents a critical effort to safeguard a vital strand of Bengali cultural heritage. Kantha’s decline threatens to sever the link between past and present, silencing the narratives woven into its fabric by generations of female artisans, often within their own homes.
Revival efforts ensure these stories of homegrown creativity, artistry, and inter-generational wisdom endure. By establishing Kantha’s contemporary relevance, the revival empowers artisans, promotes sustainable fashion practices, and fosters a deeper appreciation for our nation’s rich artistic legacy.
The Birth of ‘Kantha by Farah Khan’
The Kantha Store is army-wife Farah Khan’s passion project which strives not only to revive Kantha, but the art and craft of traditional weaving in Bengal. But how did the wife of a Kargil veteran become a champion for Bengal’s rural artisans? Perhaps, it was destiny.
Back in 2004, Farah found herself following her husband from Kashmir to his posting in a rural town in Bengal. Here, she got the opportunity to tour the villages where Kantha is made. It was this visit to the cultural epicentre of Bengal that introduced Farah to Kantha and Kantha artisans. Interacting with these artisans made Farah aware of their despair as the craft was slowly dying, progressively wiping out not only a rich cultural heritage but also their entire livelihoods.
‘Kantha by Farah Khan’, Farah’s sustainable fashion label was born soon after, as Farah took up the challenge to empower Kantha karigars and bring about a Kantha renaissance. What started as Farah sharing her experience and the handcrafted Kantha she got made from these artisans within her community of army wives, soon resulted in Kolkata’s first-ever dedicated Kantha handicrafts store.
Thanks to her intervention, hundreds of Kantha artisans were able to sustain their households, hone their skills, and take pride in their craft.
Today, The Kantha Store by Farah Khan, the label’s flagship store at Kolkata’s bustling landmark Loudon Street, stocks a premium selection of Kantha embroidery items from Kantha stoles to block print kantha sarees to floral kantha dupattas and more! Kantha by Farah Khan is recognised with pride as among India’s pioneering sustainable fashion and ethical Kantha clothing brands.
Wish to join the Kantha revival movement and sport fashion that’s good for the environment? Buy authentic Kantha saree online from our store or browse modern Kantha embroidery designs for sarees to gift your loved ones! Each piece you pick out from our selection is handmade with love and patience, over days, by expert karigars.